Work Jacket Type III - 19 Oz Thunderhoof Selvedge Kaihara

Years and years of making things the way we believe they ought to be made. Of chasing better fabrics, better construction, and better quality overall. Many years of learning that quality cannot be rushed. And that the things worth keeping are rarely made in a hurry. Just like this denim jacket collection that’s supposed to be released in conjunction with our past 14th Fandango release. But some things are better made with patience than made on schedule. So here we are.

Still using one of the signature denim fabrics we specially utilized for that special occasion, this heavy-hitting slub-banging selvedge denim from the renowned Kaihara Mills of Japan is surely up for the heavy task. Weighted at 19 oz. / sq. yd., this loom-state unsanforized denim is constructed with massive irregular slub textures.

Uneven by nature and full of character. The extreme level of slub yarns creates pronounced irregularity across the fabric face, producing a coarse and uneven texture with plenty of visual depth. The character is there right from the start and only gets better as the denim breaks in and the yarns reveal themselves through wear. And we leave it just as it came off the loom. Yes, in its purest loom-state form. No unnecessary treatment. No clever tricks. For those who appreciate denim with no nonsense and no balderdash, this is the one.

The foundation of our Work Jacket Type III mainly comes from the denim jackets of the 1930s. We took that old foundation and reworked through our particular rugged lens. The defining language is in the curves. From the rounded collar to the sweeping front yoke that arches across the chest, every line is deliberately shaped rather than simply squared off. The same treatment carries around to the back, where the curved rear yoke creates a particular silhouette.

The single lower pocket keeps the front purposeful, while the front pleats give the jacket room to move without losing its structured character. A classic cinch-back construction provides adjustability at the waist while keeping another familiar workwear detail firmly in place.

And then there is the part you won’t see at first glance; the inner lining. Back in the days, makers added a fabric lining to give the rugged denim jacket another layer of warmth and protection. Instead of a conventional lining, we chose a loosely woven fabric with a bold Navajo-inspired pattern. Its open construction gives the inside a lighter and more breathable character. The particular pattern naturally adds another Western touch on the equation into the overall build and attitude.